Number 53
By Paul

This Bangkok restaurant specializes in "fusion" cuisine. Living in a western country in the Asia-Pacific Region, we’re used to going to fusion restaurants and finding Asian food cooked and plated by Europeans (or their descendents). So I was interested to go and see how Asians in an Asian country approach “fusion.”

On the map in our copy of Thailand’s Best Restaurants, No. 53 seems just a hop, skip and jump from the Thong Lo train station. In actuality it is a hop, skip, jump and a really lengthy hike. Perhaps it would have seemed less like a death march if not for the heat of the day and my mom asking “Are we there yet?” in Thai the entire way.

I finally said, “Mom, no we’re not there yet!”

She just made her eyes all wide and said, “Hmmhh!!”

The truth is, although she will do it for me, my mom is not a big fan of eating out. She is a good, fast cook, and a master bargainer. To her mind, the food at a restaurant can’t be better or faster than she could make for herself and it definitely won’t be cheaper.

Blind with exhaustion, we stumbled at last upon No. 53. Our destination resembled an American dry cleaning establishment --located in a strip mall, and surrounded by lots of glass.

Mom scanned the blackboard specials as we entered, saying “I’m having that,” and indicating a bowl of Thai style noodles. In any fusion restaurant, I’ve found there are the “safe” options-- i.e. not at all fusion. In Australia this is usually a meat or fish with a potato mash, or a pasta dish. In Thailand, it is fish heads or noodles. After more than thirty years of living outside of Thailan, with the exception of McDonalds French fries (no ketchup) mom is still a staunch traditionalist.

My butt was still finding the seat of the chair when she gave the waiter her food order, telling him not to wait for anyone else’s food before bringing it. She met our reproachful looks with the wide eyes again as he stepped away to bring us water, “I’m hungry!”

The waiter took our remaining orders, and then proceeded to walk out the front door. Apparently at No. 53, the kitchen is in another part of the strip mall, and the food travels to one’s table across a small car park.

“What do they when it rains?” I wondered out loud.

Bee guessed, “Maybe they make all the sauces extra strong so they’ll be perfect when they get watered down.”

The first dish to arrive across the sunny void was our mango salad prepared with mango, carrots and zuchinni, and a dressing of Nam Plah, garlic and spices. I have a lot of respect for a dish like this. It is so simple that you think…”I could make this at home,” yet innovative enough that you know that even if these were the only four ingredients in your fridge, you wouldn’t have thought to do it. Fresh and good.

Then we were served a Salmon Sate. The dipping sauce was comprised of mayonnaise with ginger and lime. If you know anything about Bee and her relationship with mayonnaise, you know I had no choice but to order this. Strangely, it tasted Japanese to me—despite the fact there were no distinguishable Japanese ingredients. Maybe it’s just that cooked salmon and mayo seems like something that would eventually come around on a plate at a conveyer-belt sushi place.

You might have noticed that I have not said, “The first dish to arrive was my mom’s noodles.” In sad fact, the noodles arrived last. I had expected good food, and I received good food. What I had not anticipated was the free show. My own Thai is dubious at high speeds, but apparently the waiter was trying to sell Mom some goods about how food takes longer to cook when the ingredients are fresh. She wasn’t buying, but was feeling generous enough to give him a piece of her mind for free. The waiter moved from the table, composed but shaken. She just looked at us (wide eyes). “I’m hungry!”

The noodles arrived shortly, and peace once again reigned at the table. I could turn my attention to where it was truly needed: Dessert. Our book advised that, ”Dessert must focus on the divine blue-berry chocolate cake,” so I gave it a go. “Divine” might be a bit of a stretch, but it was better than I expected.

My one complaint about the food is that the mains (though good) lacked the imagination of the entrees. I find this is true in many fusion restaurants. I suppose it is difficult to combine innovative, hearty, and safe.

All in all, recommended. The restaurant has a diverse menu that includes dishes for vegetarians, travellers whose stomachs don’t want to travel too far, and for any Thais who might be with them.

But if you are very hungry, you might want to take a cab.

No 53
55 Sukhumvit soi 53
Bangkok 10110
0 2262 1681